January, 2014 – Graham Miln

Where the Mustard Comes From – Dijon

We had passed through Dijon a few times on the train. Our train line from Paris to Lyon passes through this notable and grand city.

Dijon has given its name to mustard. Or at least that is how I knew the name of Dijon long before I knew of the city. Mustards tended to be of the American, English, or Dijon varieties; anything else was exotic or niche.

The city of Dijon is the capital of its region, ensuring the commune has ample grand buildings, a rich – sumptuous even – history, and more than enough to keep us occupied for a weekend’s visit.

There is a trend in France to have large expanses of exposed space. Space lined with gravel, stone, or some unforgiving material. No trees, little shade, and few places to sit. The sun shining back from ground as well as from above.

Dijon suffered its own set of beautiful buildings surrounded by large open stone spaces. Stunning and at the same time unfriendly. We surveyed, got our photos, and wandered on.

The obvious retort is to suggest sitting in the shade in a cafe. This is not our thing. Sitting outside in a French cafe, tends to bring with it nearby smokers. Sitting in a cafe with a coffee and cigarette may be an iconically French scene but that does not make it pleasant for the non-smoker.

A gateway into Dijon
A gateway into Dijon

Patterned roof tiles visible down a Dijon street
Patterned roof tiles visible down a Dijon street

Roof tiles in Dijon
Roof tiles in Dijon

Patterned roof tiles on a church
Patterned roof tiles on a church

Wood carved door
Wood carved door

Courtyard
Courtyard

Formal ponds in a Dijon park
Formal ponds in a Dijon park

On the path to the lake
On the path to the lake

A lake near Dijon
A lake near Dijon

A monster roams the shore of the lake
A monster roams the shore of the lake

Corner of a building in Dijon
Corner of a building in Dijon

Outside Dijon’s covered market
Outside Dijon’s covered market

Closing time within Dijon’s covered market
Closing time within Dijon’s covered market

Varieties of Dijon mustard
Varieties of Dijon mustard

Imposing church front
Imposing church front

A row of gargoyles
A row of gargoyles

Stained glass window
Stained glass window

An owl carved into a church; rubbing it is believed to impart good fortune
An owl carved into a church; rubbing it is believed to impart good fortune

Initials carved in stone
Initials carved in stone

Advertising for a Dijon performance
Advertising for a Dijon performance

Dijon’s government offices

Staircase with a Dijon government office
Staircase with a Dijon government office

Kitchen chimney stack
Kitchen chimney stack

Sculptures in a Dijon museum
Sculptures in a Dijon museum

Intricate ceiling corner in a Dijon gallery
Intricate ceiling corner in a Dijon gallery